Day 3: Escape from Akagera!!

Sunday 12th April: Of course it rains again, hard, as we emerge at 7am to thick fog and muddy roads. Our guide (who slept the night at a park guard outpost up the hill) advises us to head out of the north gate of the park via a road that takes us through a buffer zone to farmland and out onto the main road.

We trust that he's used this road before but after losing the track to thick bush and driving over several trees, we decide to turn back (a 40min skiddy drive) to pick up a guard from the outpost.

With only a 1/4 tank of petrol left, we're led down the same path as before and lose the track. It turns out this guard hasn't used the road for a few years and its completely overgrown. The path we've been following is a cow path and we meet a large group of the magnificent horned creatures.

Scratching their heads they decide to try the next hill. Its rocky and steep and the driver has the hand break on, caning the clutch. J turns to me and says- we're not getting back up this hill! Sure enough, half way down we meet a slate cliff and some more cows. Completely the wrong way. The Rav turns out to be more of a 2x1 than a 4x4 and can't hack the 40 degree angle. They radio for help.

Meanwhile, N calls to see how I'm enjoying my holiday! It could be much worse, had it been hot and sunny like previous days we'd be eaten alive by tetsi flies. Worst case scenario, we could walk to the main road. In no time, 3 armed guards arrive to rescue us and they painfully slowly zig-zag push the Rav up the hill, burning clutch and rubber. The driver calls his boss who he laughs is "verrrry annnngry".

One short rest later, we were back on our mission to find this road. 2 guards in the front, our guide ready to pass out from the stress with us in the back. They eventually track down the road but then we come to a cross roads and are met by this lonely yellow sign. 20 mins of head scratching later, a man and boy on a bike pass us and show us the right way.

Almost as quickly as we got into this mess, we were out of the park, sun shining and back in Kigali! What an adventure...

Akagera, day 2

Saturday 11th April: 5am we are woken up by the wind which is blowing our pathetic plastic sheet cover off. J gets up at 5.30 and by 6 it starts spitting and its gone from lovely and clear to fogged up and terrential. Luckily we get everything into the car before it starts bucketing.

Breakfast is some sausage sandwiches we threw together the night before. As its completely misty and we're still half asleep, we stop by the Akagera Game Lodge (charges $150 per night) for some hot african tea and croissants.

We pick up the guide from the entrance and are on our way to try to track down the elusive Shoebill stork and meet some alligators, hippos, plenty of birds and lots of deer. (The great close up shots are J's pics).

That evening we camp further north at Mutumba and are chased up the hill by 100's tetsi flies who think we're a large mammal (see car bonnet). Several swats and bites later, we build a fire (pretty difficult using damp wood and loo paper) and pitch the tent under cover. Stunning view of the lakes. This time we're the only tourists.

Baked potatoes (wrapped in tin foil take 20 mins in the fire) with a can of tuna and whole tub of mayo, topped with gouda cheese makes a hearty meal! And with a bathroom only metres away, we have it very easy.

Akagera National Park: Day 1

Friday 10th April: The driver Jean-Paul arrives to pick us up at 7.30am. On the 2 hr drive to Akagera we stop for some Ikiveguto, beers and sodas. The driver buys his packed lunch- some pizza slices, cakes and a bag of milk.

In the car I think I'm being really clever by eating my yogurt with my camping spoon from Muji. A few bumps later, my top is covered in it. Then the driver takes his yogurt pot and turns it upside down and bites a small hole in the bottom and drinks it through that without a spill. Live and learn!

In Akagera we arrive and pay entrance fee, car fee, camping fee, firewood fee and driver camping fee, all on individual receipts! The total comes to $115 for 3 days and includes the services of our guide, Samuel. The driver had hoped we would be staying at the lodge for $150 per night. He looks mortified to discover he'll be sleeping in the car. He's 31, from Kigali and never been to Akagera.

The guide shows us the best places to see zebra, giraffe, topi, buffallo, impala, hippo, water buck and we stop to identify loads of birds. The last elephant sighting was a week ago (see dung by J's feet by the lake). Its not likely we'll see any lions, leopards or the last remaining rhino.

As the sun sets we head to camp at Kiyonza and discover the top sheet of the tent is missing! Luckily its a dry night but if it rains, we're screwed! At least 4 other groups are camping there tonight, the weekends are generally busy. An Italian couple share their log fire with us and even throw in a pack of sausages and sticks! What a treat to accompany the baked potatoes and Heinz baked beans.

The moon is full and casts the most glorious reflection. We hardly need our torches.
Throughout the night we hear nearby hyenas chattering away, I mistake them for children in the nextdoor tent.