In the car I think I'm being really clever by eating my yogurt with my camping spoon from Muji. A few bumps later, my top is covered in it. Then the driver takes his yogurt pot and turns it upside down and bites a small hole in the bottom and drinks it through that without a spill. Live and learn!
In Akagera we arrive and pay entrance fee, car fee, camping fee, firewood fee and driver camping fee, all on individual receipts! The total comes to $115 for 3 days and includes the services of our guide, Samuel. The driver had hoped we would be staying at the lodge for $150 per night. He looks mortified to discover he'll be sleeping in the car. He's 31, from Kigali and never been to Akagera.
The guide shows us the best places to see zebra, giraffe, topi, buffallo, impala, hippo, water buck and we stop to identify loads of birds. The last elephant sighting was a week ago (see dung by J's feet by the lake). Its not likely we'll see any lions, leopards or the last remaining rhino.
As the sun sets we head to camp at Kiyonza and discover the top sheet of the tent is missing! Luckily its a dry night but if it rains, we're screwed! At least 4 other groups are camping there tonight, the weekends are generally busy. An Italian couple share their log fire with us and even throw in a pack of sausages and sticks! What a treat to accompany the baked potatoes and Heinz baked beans.
The moon is full and casts the most glorious reflection. We hardly need our torches.
Throughout the night we hear nearby hyenas chattering away, I mistake them for children in the nextdoor tent.
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